This weekend past

5/24/10

So much has been happening. I think three days is the longest I've gone without internet in a long time. That is an interesting and slightly scary realization. To recap this weekend:

Viernes: I visited a vivarium and got to hold a gigantuan snake. I also found the panaderia (bakery) that my teacher told me sold all sorts of younameit-free (ex. gluten-free) bread. Not so much. However, there was pan de maiz, which I asked about and was told it was indeed sin trigo (w/out wheat). I don't think this was true. Or maybe it was just baked with other glutinous breads which seeped over. Anyway, tengo dolor de estomago.



Sabado: I went with my host family to Cayambe (north and a bit west by an hour of Quito) where they have a second house. (They said “our poor house,” but my standards just the fact that they have two houses says quite a bit about their financial situation...especially here.) On the way we stopped at “the real” mitad del mundo (middle of the world). A tall cylinder marks the spot, and for a few minutes twice a year the sun shines directly down, creating no shadow of the tube whatsoever.



Fun facts: Ecuador is the best place to determine the exact middle of the world because of the Andes mountains (mountains don't grow like trees in a forest do, hence easier determining). Also, Volcan Cayambe is the only place in the world were temperature and latitude reach 0 simultaneously. It's not only the highest point on the equator, but, according to some, also the farthest point from the center of the earth due to the equatorial bulge (Moon).
The family's “poor house” is a long and low one room building partitioned into three bedrooms, add one TV. Also a separate building for cooking and an “outhouse” with a flush toilet. They have potatoes, strawberries, cabbage, lettuce, and a bush that produces what looks like tomatillos, but which tastes slightly sweet. Animals include four dogs, ducks, chickens, turkeys, rabbits, and cuy (guinea pig: the specialty of Ecuador. I'm told it tastes like fatty pork, but I don't know if I can bring myself to verify this as I owned guinea pigs as a kid). When the family is not there on the weekend, a neighbor is payed to take care of animals and plants.
I basically spent saturday weeding a strawberry patch...a quite enjoyable task when the earth is so moist (nothing like the clay of WNC). My thighs are still tight.




Domingo: I visited the second, and allegedly incorrect, mitad del mundo with two students (Netherlands and Australia) from the language school.

the second and incorrect equatorial line

The highlight of this trip was outside of the mitad del mundo complex, at Museo de Sitio Inti-Nan, path of the sun in Kichwa.

The museum claims that the “real” equatorial line runs right through their museum and we performed several science experiments to prove it (although I'm not sure science would be the right word). We:
Balanced a raw egg on the head of a nail.
Tried to walk on the equatorial line with our eyes closed (supposedly it's harder to keep your balance directly on the equator as the pull of south and north are strong and opposite...although I think I would have a hard time walking on a straight line with my eyes closed anywhere).
This one is hard to deny: first we stood off of the line and our guide tested our arm and finger strength. Then we stood on the line and were tested again. It was absolutely impossible to resist the second time. Now granted, he tested us on the line second when we were not completely fresh, but the difference was really remarkable.
Somebody PLEASE explain this one to me definitively. I read in Lonely Planet, and on the internet, that water swirling different ways down a drain depending upon which side of the equator you were on was false. BUT. Our guide had a basin full of water with a plug in the center and some leaves to show the flow of water. He put the basin first on the line and pulled the plug. The water flowed directly out of the basin with no swirl. Then to south: the water swirled clockwise. To the north: the water swirled counter-clockwise. I watched very carefully to see if he was influencing the water with the motion of his hand, but could not detect anything different about the three times he did it. WHAT HAPPENED?
A very interesting idea that both the museum guide, and the real mitad del mundo guide (whose lecture I spied upon) presented, was that our current maps and globes are ridiculous. The equator should not divide the northern hemisphere from the south, but rather should be a vertical line uniting both hemispheres. (Imagine a globe and turn it on its side, to the left.) Just like so many things which are stupid or wrong, but will probably never change (US measurements and the charge of electrons/protons just to name two).

How to shrink a head:

Lunes: I woke up late and depressed with nothing planned except to wander and finally check email. Not soon after I awoke however, there was knock on my door and I was told everyone was leaving in twenty minutes for the entire day and I should come too. (They don't have a key for me!)
Not knowing what to do or expect, I piled into their five person car with nine other people. It's honestly a miracle that anyone survives in Quito (pedestrian or in an automobile) considering their attitude regarding driving. I won't go into it now, but suffice it to say: terrifying.
Well, the outing turned out to be going to another piece of property this family owns (not just my host family, the entire family) that needed serious weeding (with axes) and which had upwards of 15 beautiful avocado trees. I had stupidly thrown on sandals. There were quite impressive spiders of all varieties.
Nothing gets done with any speed (especially when it involves moving from one place to the other...like getting in the car) so something that could have taken several hours took the whole day. It was very nice though.
I did not have Spanish class because it is a national holiday celebrating the battle of Pichincha. Not being in Quito, all I missed were military parades. Because there´s no class on monday, that means an extra hour of class every day this week. Five hours a day! Aie!

Martes, hoy: Went to class as usual, couldn´t concentrate because I didn´t have enough breakfast. Got back to the house an hour later than usual to find another traveler is staying for about five days. She is from Alaska, doesn´t speak much spanish, and I believe she is 16 years old. I invited her to go to an open market with me, but I don´t think she is supposed to do anything without her teacher/supervisor/jailor. I also can´t find my ipod, which I´m really hoping doesn´t mean that somebody took it while I was out yesterday. Silly of me to bring it, but such a comfort as well.

Missing home.

processed meat in Supermaxi...terrifyingly mono-colored

From the Sudoku files

(on plane ATL->UIO, 5/13/10)

Rose encrusted canyons

fooled into believing

they're clouds

float effortless below.

(And yet above)

a glimmer of turquoise

and sapphire

they already fade to gray.

Missing those rays which

the sun imparts to me yet.

5/19/10

listening to: Maire Brennan, Misty Eyed Adventures; Debussy, Clair de lune; Jesse Cook, La Llorona; Michael Hedges, Aerial Boundaries;

Oh Quito, the city that has captured my imagination and daring. Cuidad viejo was visited today with new friends kind to invite a lonely traveler along. These adventuresome 5 ventured to new heights, climbing rickety ladders to the point of the Basilica. Regard the ants, aren't they industrious? Seen from below this center of worship appears beautiful and average. What do those ants know, they who have never left their mounds? A city stretches to endless unknowns, protected by a virgin semblance in statue form, gleaming in the setting day.

Friends from the school: Claire, Bekah, me, Mami

What would happen to us, far from land, if Pichincha was to decide to rumble? Crumbling flakes evidence aging, and it's not hard to imagine falling down among the workers. Deep breaths for vertigo, whether to assist or dampen it's hard to say. How many died in the realization of this work of art? Remember the ants – resilient, yet small and fragile. Determined.

¡que bueno!

5/16/10
20:30

Today was very good. I woke up late, went to the internet cafe, played house with Daysi, Alexandria, y la nina Amelia on the rooftop. Nolan, if you're reading this, I taught the girls that magic card trick that you taught me with great success (and Jason I finally have it right ;-)! They love it, but sometimes don't get it right because they don't understand that the order of the cards is imperative.

This evening Maria cooked dinner for eight Americans who came and toured the house. It was hilarious and flattering that they looked to me to translate for the girls (me the expert?) who tried showing them the card trick, but alas I think some cards got shuffled by mistake. I helped Maria and the girls serve dinner, and Maria kept thanking me every other sentence. Mealtimes are interesting around here. While Maria will give me things to do if I ask her (as opposed to in France), she is very verbally thankful and I think somewhat embarrassed (at least at first) that I am helping her. I hadn't eaten a meal with her until this evening when we ate in the kitchen after everyone had left. It's usually Nixon (el padre) and I...and sometimes one of the girls, usually at dasayuno (breakfast).

I 'helped' Alexandria with her math tonight, but I think she just wanted me there for company or moral support. She is working on geometry and graphing.

Tomorrow I start language class!!! I'm so excited. It's within walking distance from the house, so Maria is going to show me the way tomorrow morning. I think class starts at 8:00.

PS

I realized today with embarrassment that I told you a lie. Ecuador is within the same time zone as Asheville, there's just no need of silly daylight savings because Ecuador is just that: the equator! Thus the 'time difference'...which will align again when Asheville falls back in the fall. It's interesting to think about. That means every spring we are not on time so to speak.

5/17/10

14:05

My mind is reeling with new vocabulary and verb conjugation. It was so nice to get out on my own today. Oy, I am so shy though.

Sabado

5-15-10
19:05

I met two Americans today, one of whom is attending the same language school as I. They both speak much better Spanish, but that is to be expected, me of un poco castellano. Interesting language side-note: I thought that only Argentinians added a J to their double Ls, but from what I can tell so far, Ecuadorians (or at least those in Quito) do this as well. For example, amarillo (yellow) is pronounced amaryjho.

I can't say enough how much I like the family I'm staying with. I am grateful especially for the little things. Like when Marie casually picked a speck of lint off my shirt – something that no one did while I was in France. And it is very helpful that there isn't a great language barrier, as both parents speak English.

They are pretty well off I think. The father, Nixon, owns a gym that is on the first floor of the house. As such there is constant stream of American pop-music and a little Latin pop...which I like much better. Maybe because I don't understand the simplicity of their lyrics. Today I went with Nixon to run a few errands. We went somewhere very similar to Lowe's or Home Depot, which is frequented by the upper class. It was interesting to see that I had darker skin than half of the people in there, the only thing to give me away were my eyes. We also briefly went to El Bosque, the mall, which is built up the side of a mountain (Quito reminds me of San Francisco in ways, except even more mountainous. I love it!). In an electronics store, the price of a netbook was around $1000 – one that I think would run $300 in the US. Nixon said this is due to the newly elected president (as of two years ago) who has introduced insanely high taxes...something that I think is a new concept in Ecuador. Also, Nixon said the average monthly income (I think in Quito) is approx $200-$250. Later he said the house he rents is $400/mo., thus my deduction of well off. Although I don't know if this means just the living space and the gym of the family I'm staying with, or the entire building which is inhabited by three generations and three separate families.

Now we are off to a birthday party (the second one today!) where wearing pink is a requirement. I am in one of Alexandria's shirts that says Vitamin D under the picture of a cow.

I can't help myself: 67 days to go.

21:00

Well Ecuadorians are famous for fashionably late, says the guidebook, and it does not lie. (Never be on time, it says, unless for a business meeting. Arrive at least a half hour late. If you don't your host will not even be dressed yet, which is never considered good manners anywhere.) Anyway, no party to report on yet, but it's nice to just chill.

My favorite chilling pastime is people watching. My bedroom overlooks a bustling street complete with food vendors, a giant inflatable slide, and of course the people. I sit in a chair close to the window and peak my head over just far enough to see most of what is down there (for fear of being spotted – la gringa). I don't know if it's just the weekend, but to all appearances there's a party here every night, all night. Too bad I'm too nervous to go out at night and check it out for myself (at least alone, which rationally I know is a good reaction).

The people line up for food starting around 5pm and ending...past my bedtime :-). I have been so tired this past couple of days, which for me means a LOT of sleep is needed. Let's just say 10 hours plus naps is optimal for this amiga right now. There are usually several (feral?) dogs roaming around, begging for food scraps.

One thing I forgot to write yesterday: flying into Quito at night ranks as one of the most beautiful things I have seen in my life thus far. Nothing like flying into industrial Frankfurt, Quito was a softly orange-lit mosaic of neatly spaced street-lanterns and house lights. Not bright and pompous like a lot of cities...just a blanket of orange pinpricks draped elegantly over the rolling sea of both steep and gentle mountains. The storm we had just passed through definitely helped add to the general ambiance.

5-16-10

3:17

What was I saying about early to bed? Que? Yeah right! We just got back from the birthday party/crazy dance party. 3 o'clock in the morning. And even the grandmother was there til the end. The young and the old, bumpin' and grindin' in the courtyard that was the dance floor. And the sound system was complete with DJ and turntables. Ecuadorians know how to party. Nothing like this would have EVER happened at any of my highschool parties, or even now for that matter. Wow, maybe more later when I can think straight.

Hola de Ecuador

5/14/10
I awoke to a symphony of horns at around 7am this morning. My heart started to race, I think with excitement, when I realized I was in Quito, Ecuador, South America!!! I absolutely love my host family. They smile a lot, are very kind, and both parents speak english quite well. I met one of the daughters, Daysi, last night at the airport (whom I would guess to be around 12 years old) and there is an older daughter who had already left for school by the time I roused myself.
I have my own room, and supposedly own bathroom (which I find odd?). I haven't been out of the house yet (except for the rooftop where laundry is hung!), but Maria says she has to go out later today and I will go with her.
I thought that Quito was in the same time zone as Asheville, but I realized on the flight over that Quito is actually one hour earlier than Asheville. The flight was super short – only 4.5 hours – and only a little bumpy. Just as we were starting to fly over South America, a beautiful light show lit up the sky to the north-east for some time. And I had the entire row of seats to myself!! Three seats I was able to take advantage of and fall asleep for a little while. I think the rest of the plane was full of larger groups of rather silly late teen girls who were saying things like ¨they (Ecuadorians I presume) wear that, like, bulky kind of jewelry right?" or "my mom told me to buy all my jewelry and wear it on the plane home so I don´t have to declare anything" (oh that´s a wonderful way to get robbed my dear). That or gorgeous Ecuadorians with soulful eyes.

12:45
Being immersed in Spanish makes me realize and greatly appreciate just how much French I really did know. Simple things like “can I help you” and “I'm finished” readily come to mind...in French. Which doesn't help me here. I also keep saying oui instead of si and mais instead of pero. Or combining languages like “mais pero” or “oui pero.” I can't wait to start Spanish lessons.
Something that seems strange to me is how much more comfortable I am here saying things in English then I was saying something in English whilst in France. Maybe because I am more obviously a foreigner here than I was in France (being Caucasian and all) I don't feel like I need to pretend to fit in.
How am I going to live here for two months?

22:26
1 day down, 68 to go.
My family are catholics turned christian and every friday night lead a circle of friends in prayer and worship. I was invited. Very music oriented and passionate.
I met the older daughter, Alexandria, tonight. Both girls are so sweet. Walking home from the eglisia, Daysi took my arm and held my hand the whole way back. Granted, they are obviously worried about my safety as a foreigner, especially at night. Marie took my arm on the way to the church, and said “because you are my daughter.” I took this to mean she wants others to know I am with Ecuadorians?
Buenas noches.

My room

The family presented me with two roses upon my arrival in Quito
Daysi stuck glow in the dark stars on my ceiling
Drying laundry
View from the rooftop

Ecuador

As some of you may know, I am going to Ecuador this thursday. I'm running around like chicken with her head cut off, trying to get everything in order. And trying not to freak out. I decided to opt out of immunizations (besides a tetanus that was way out of date). If you are shaking your head, instead of a diatribe all I will say now is this: I went to Ecuador with my Aunt when I was 11. She got all the shots, I took herbal and homeopathic supplements, and vitamins. She got sick, I did not. 'nough said.

WANTED: your mailing address!!!

I'll be updating this post while I'm there, although who knows how frequently. Definitely for the first several weeks, as I'll be in Quito (the capitol of Ecuador).

hasta luego amigos.